The Walker’s Haute route is a high-level trail that begins in Chamonix, France and finishes in Zermatt, Switzerland. It doesn’t require mountaineering equipment orexpertise, but with 7000m of elevation gain over 120km, it’s a daunting route. We set out in July, unsure whether we would actually complete the whole distance.

Originally conceived as a cross-country skiing route, the summer months transform the Haute Route into a demanding, but spectacular two week walk. The trail snakes around some of the highest and most imposing peaks of the Alps, but remains just below 3000m. The terrain ranges from gentle farming road, to alpine meadows, boulder fields and sometimes sketchy scree slopes. There are river crossings, glacier crossings, and sections with just steel ladders bolted to the rock, but trails are well sign posted and there are plenty of places to stop for a beer.

After waiting out some ugly weather in Chamonix, the first five days treated us to blue skies and cool nights. Climbing alongside the Glacier du Trient to the Fenetre d’Arpette was both a highlight, and a taste of the challenges to come. Days later, after a long ascent to the the ski resort of Verbier, a spanner was thrown in the works. The mountain refuge informed us that a lingering ice cornice made the following days walk too dangerous to pass without crampons. Reluctantly we shared an expensive taxi with some other walkers and skipped to the next valley.

From there the walk fell into a satisfying routine as we slowly ticked off the 14 passes that punctuate the route, passing from high cols to valley floors. We camped where it was sensible and otherwise made good use of mountain refuges dotted through the alps. The Swiss aren’t super keen on wild camping, but there are plenty of quiet spots where you won’t be bothered and fresh water is everywhere.

The final stretch down the Mattertal to Zermatt was the most spectacular and hair raising of the whole route. With good weather on the horizon, we chose the “Europaweg” over the gentle valley floor, a decision we questioned at times. The trail climbs straight up to 2200m and spends the next 31km traversing an extremely exposed section of boulder fields and cliff faces, with a minimalist approach to safety infrastructure. We witnessed three major rockfalls along the way, providing ample motivation to reach the safety of the picturesque Europahütte. A cold beer calmed our nerves substantially.

Unfortunately rockfall damage to a major bridge had cut off the route through to the second stage of the Europaweg. We reluctantly descended to the valley floor and enjoyed a relaxed walk up to Zermatt. As the Matterhorn finally came into view we felt elated, exhausted, and a little bit sad to see the end of an epic trail.

By Ben Christensen

2016
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