Although it’s so close to the popular Cradle Mountain National Park I certainly hadn’t considered trekking through The Walls of Jerusalem National Park until the weather disrupted my plans to walk the South Coast Track. I scaled the map looking inland for another alternative and after researching the track I was keen to take it on as a last minute option.

A 2 hour drive from Launceston winding through the Mersey Forest and along Lake Rowallan will bring you to the start of the trailhead.

Straight from the carpark the walk winds its way up the valley towards Trappers Hut. This is the steepest part of the walk and i did spot as few Tiger Snakes hiding amongst the fallen trees and moss covered boulders!

The track starts to level out after Trappers hut and not long after passing Trappers the trail splits which heads towards the walls via Solomons Jewels or via the Junction Lake track. The entire walk can be done as a circuit looping back to this Junction.

The Mount Jerusalem track winds its way through to Solomons Jewels which is a great place to stop and have a quick rest and re-hydrate with lakes and pools everywhere you turn. A Great spot to cool off if its Hot!

The camp at Wild Dog Creek is not far from here and as the shrub clears it opens up to stunning views towards King Davids peak as you stroll into camp.

The camp at Wild Dog Creek is setup excellent with Wooden Platforms on various levels to set yourself up for the night a great spot to cook up a feed and watch the sun set! There is also rainwater available here and toilets too.

From the camp at Wild Dog Creek its easy to access the surrounding peaks and i walked all of them in a Day! The track through to the Walls from Wild Dog is duck boarded through the array of pin Cushion Plants it really is a stunning view as you are surrounded by the Western Walls.

The Track walks up to Damascus Gate where “The Temple” “Solomons Throne” and “King Davids Peak” can all be accessed from the Junction here. If I had only time to do one, the walk up to King Davids Peak via Solomons Throne would be the pick. From the top of Solomons Throne the track continues along the ridge top to King Davids Peak. Its poorly marked and a bit of a rock scramble but at the top it will give you stunning views of the surrounding area!

From the Track Junction at the base of Solomons throne the track continues as its winds down the valley through the Pencil Pine forrest towards Dixons Kingdom. The Hut is a good spot to dry off in the weather, cook up a feed or even camp up for the night. From here the track heads to the summit of Mount Jerusalem or towards Lake Adelaide via Lake Ball towards the carpark if you were hiking the walk as a Circuit.

I headed to the top of Mount Jerusalem and as the weather set in i headed back to camp at Wild Dog Creek for the Night. My original plan was to hike the circuit via Lake Ball and Lake Adelaide camping for the night at Junction lake but after reports that the track was a boggy mess I decided to save the mess and backtrack through Solomons to the Carpark for my boots to live another day!

By Mitchell Canfield

2018

mjcanfield.tumblr.com

Walking through this landscape is an opportunity to reflect on the original inhabitants and traditional owners of this land. The Pydairrerme people experienced among the most brutal removals in Australia, thrown off the cliffs of these capes that I had tread. Walking in this place is not just an exhilarating hike, but a solemn reflection.

The Three Capes Track was million-dollar reconstruction by Parks Tasmania, which reopened in late 2015 and has been booked out since. I had to book around six months in advance of my early-spring September hike. This hike will set you back $360 for a concession price, which includes three nights of self-catered accommodation in architecturally designed eco-cabins in addition to a hiking guide book with maps and boat and coach transfers from Port Arthur and Fortescue Bay. The cost also feeds back into ecological work by Parks Tasmania and is a direct injection into the local economy of Tasmania. After completing the four-day, 46km walk, I can report that the Three Capes Track is a thoughtful balance between Australian bushwalk, historical reflection and contemporary embrace of landscape.

Day 1: Port Arthur to Surveyors Hut

Starting at Port Arthur Historic Site, hikers are given access to explore these convict prison grounds before departing on the boat cruise with Pennicott Wilderness Journey’s, which traverses the pristine arc of Crescent Bay before disembarking at the starting point Denmans Cove in the Tasman National Park. This day was a relaxing 4km traverse through coastal heathland and eucalypt woodland, with the perfect lunch spot on a cobblestoned beach before settling into Surveyors Hut to watch the sunset, enjoy a tea, read my book and reflect on the contrast in landscape that I had experienced on this day.

Day 2: Surveyors Hut to Munro Hut

I was one of the last to get on the track today because I started the day with some yoga on the deck, since the cabins included communal equipment and games for hikers to enjoy. Day 2 is an 11km stroll through the eucalypt forests changing into open moorlands and colourful heathlands with springtime blooms. It is hard to ignore the careful collaborations with the University of Tasmania furniture design students and the Tasmanian Aboriginal community, in the creative interpretation of nature’s art expressed by the design of sitting areas and accommodation that are threaded with story, curating a space for reflection every kilometre or so along the trail.

Day 3: Munro Hut to Retakunna Hut

An exciting 17km day heading out to The Blade near Cape Pillar with a daypack for essentials only. I enjoyed my lunch - cooked fresh in the morning at Munro Hut - with the most expansive views in complete solitude on one of Australia’s most southerly points. I was at peace with the beauty and majesty of the blue ocean, and kept my eyes peels for the odd migrating whale. Blessed with blue sky’s, sunshine, and warmth, it was the perfect day and was welcomed considering I had been prepared for gale winds and rain typical of spring in Tasmania. Passing back through Munro after lunch to collect my pack, I found myself in some great conversations with other hikers of all demographics whom I’d been bunking with the past two nights. The rest of the way to Retakunna Hut went too quickly, and scrabble games with hot tea warmed the rest of the evening as it started to cool down.

Day 4: Retakunna Hut to Fortescue Bay

The most diverse landscapes are traversed in one 14km day. Starting in fragrant heathlands, to a contoured climb up Mount Fortescue, then meandering down into ancient rainforest with enormous tree ferns and sky-high eucalypts, eventually back into eucalypt woodlands with occasional cliff-top lookouts across the Tasman Sea. There’s another convenient opportunity to safely leave your pack before hiking out to Cape Hauy, I bared the essentials of nuts, water and my camera since I’d been warned from other hikers of what was literally thousands of stairs, down, and up to the lookout, then down and up again back to the trail junction. Geology fans would be impressed by the variety of Jurassic Dolerite igneous rock on display along the entire hike, but particularly on this last day. The most beautiful decline into Fortescue Bay with the warm sun had me excited to end the hike with a swim in the pristine turquoise water that I’d been looking out over the past four days. It was a cold-yet cathartic cleanse that washed away sweat and soreness, and left me refreshed and rejuvenated for the bus back to Hobart.

by Cristina Margherita Napoleone

Instagram @cristinapoleone or link to my temporary bio page.

Map:

http://www.threecapestrack.com.au

The Overland Track in Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park sits at the northern end of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area (TWWHA).  To put things simply, World Heritage sites are recognised  by UNESCO for their environmental and/or cultural significance on a global scale.
Based on this criteria UNESCO found that the TWWHA holds a greater variety of evidence of both the globes natural and human history than any other site on earth.

The park has 1500 year old trees, 350 million year old fossils and countless endemic species of both flora and fauna.  Plus, Tasmania makes up only 1% of Australia’s land mass but holds 50% of its alpine areas and the Overland Track alone runs beside 4 of Tasmania’s 5 highest peaks.

Working as a guide on the track I've walked the trek more times than I can now remember, but every time I go I see it at a new time of year or in a different weather pattern and it always reminds me why I break myself to be there.

Here I've listed some personal trip-tips to get as much as you can out of your trek.

On the first day set off early and climb Cradle Mountain.  Of all the mountains on the track Cradle Mountain is the most challenging as it involves the trickiest sections and the most false summits but gives the best views to the North.

Lake Windermere is the warmest lake on the Overland Track if you’re ever going to brave a swim. I recommend attempting the 30 metres or so to Windermere Island where there's a visitor book you can sign your name in.

If ascending Mt. Oakleigh continue past the summit and follow the cairns for about 30 minutes more. There you’ll reach the top of the pinnacles which is a much better view down into the Forth River Valley.

Mt. Ossa has a shallow tarn on the summit that is surprisingly warm so take your bathers.

From Ducane Hut consider spacing out your group and doing a silent solo walk through the cool-temperate rainforest to the waterfall junction 30 minutes in.

The top and bottom of all 3 waterfalls (Fergusson, D'Alton and Hartnett falls) are accessible if you can spot the paths, just be mindful of water levels and watch your step.

You can either take the fairy across Lake St. Clair (booking required) or skirt around the lake.  If you’re taking the fairy ask the skipper about ‘The Hang Challenge’.

If you’re planning on walking around the lake instead then get an early start and it can be done in a day from Bert Nichols Hut.  The track goes through rich and thick forest but it’s full of roots and mud so it’s a beautiful but tiring extra 18km’s.

Matt Jones
mattjonesphotography.tumblr.com
 

LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country]  and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Tasmania and urges you to please do the same.

Aboriginal Name -Not found

Maria Island perfectly encapsulates the idea of seclusion. It's an island off an island off the island continent. The only people that live on the island are a few park folk that maintain the facilities. The only vehicles are their two or three maintenance vehicles. Yet it's actually easy enough to get to. It's just an hour's drive from Hobart - plus a 20 minute ferry.

We stayed on the island for a couple nights over January - with the intention to walk to the furthest extremities of the Island. But we paced ourselves to take it all in and only ended up making it to half of the island's scenery . We camped at Encampment Cove, a protected bay three hours each way by foot from Darlington and scaling Bishop & Clerk about two hours each way.

The Bishop and Clerk walk was particularly memorable. it takes you through abandoned convict built brick works, sweeping native meadows that are disrupted by shear cliffs, and when you reach the summit it feels like you're standing on top of a 700 meter high sky-scraper looking out over to Antarctica, highly recommend.

Secluded as it is it seems that the word is out about maria island and the people are flocking, but the number of animals will always out weigh the people. Maria Island is a sanctuary for native Tasmanian and Australian fauna, from a strengthening group of tumor-less Tasmanian devils to hundreds of Cape Barren Geese. Every field or valley on the island is covered with scurrying birds and marsupials at sunset.

The original inhabitants of Maria Island were the Tyreddeme people from the Oyster Bay area and may have used the islands as feeding and burial grounds for thousands of years, but there is little surviving evidence other than shell middens (traditional feeding areas). It doesn’t help that most of the information on the island is to do with the colonial era settlement and private industry.

Although close to the mainland (or main island) there are no shops or stores for supplies at all on the island so make sure you pack your essentials. While we were the it was relatively cold but we still managed to dunk in the ocean. It would make the perfect summer island beach holiday destination.

You better get there before they start building beachside apartments.

by - Andrej Vodstrčil & Max Blackmore

noscribbles.com

naturaltombstone.tumblr.com

2015

LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country]  and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Tasmania and urges you to please do the same.

Know Aboriginal name for Lake St Claire - Leeawuleena

Cradle Mountain is easily one of Australia's most breathtaking mountains to climb, both physically and visually. Situated on a 3 hour detour off the very well travelled Overland Track. Although I have not done the 6 day Overland hike, it is  quite surreal being on the actual track. To get the most out of a day trip up to Cradle Mountain, a good way to start is at the Ronny Creek carpark, from where you walk along a boardwalk which is also one of the starting points of the Overland Track. The beginning is pretty mellow but once the climb starts you will feel the burn in your calves. You might feel a bit of a slack arse when you see the Overlanders with their massive 6 day packs strapped to their backs streaming up the hill.

After the first climb the view changes dramatically  and you can see just how impressive the Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair area is, plus you get your first glimpse of the Cradle. The track opens up along the ridge as you make your way up to Kitchen Hut at the base of the summit climb. You could be mistaken in thinking that you have been transported to Switzerland with rock faces jutting out that look like those spotted around the european alps. Don’t mind the pile of packs stacked up waiting for their owners to return from the summit and continue along the Overland. Unlike the relative ease of the initial climb, the trek up to the summit is way more interesting and adrenaline raising. You spend a lot of time pulling yourself up and over boulders only to be at the base of another series of rocks and boulders, occasionally getting a view to the lakes, rivers and plateau below. Because we are true mountaineers we took up a light lunch of mountain bread and whisky to chow on as you look out “over“ the “land”.

On our descent, rather than retracing our foot steps we decided to take the Face Track which takes you along the base of the Cradle and down a chain guide rail towards Dove Lake. It’s quite a steep descent but offers a different view over the countryside. You scramble down stoney paths until you get to the foresty edge of the lake where you can hear the shrieks of families splashing each other from canoes with the flipping freezing  water. Then you walk along spotting echidnas, dodging tourist groups and selfie sticks by the edge of Dove lake.

At Dove lake you can say see you later to Cradle Mountain and hitch hike or jump on a free shuttle bus back down to Ronny Creek.

by Max Blackmore
2015
noscribbles.com

natuaraltombestone.tumblr.com

LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country]  and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Tasmania and urges you to please do the same.

Aboriginal Name - Not found

The Western Arthurs range is one of the most prominent mountain ranges in South West Tasmania. It’s only competition being the Eastern Arthurs, which is really just the other half of the ridge. It sets itself apart from others by the continuous jagged peaks and ancient glacial lakes that are stumbled across as you traverse the aggressive, majestic range. The first people to make this traverse must have been thinking “what the hell?”, as it becomes more and more technical and exposed and less obvious to navigate as the days go on. The ridge itself is only about 15km long, give or take depending on how many days food you have, the weather and the state of your knees.

Access in and out is relatively simple and a couple of days should be allocated to this. Once upon a time this traverse took a timely 3 weeks due to access. This was later improved and thus is now a 7 to 10 day walk that is very much weather dependent.

Access to the walk is via Scotts Peak Dam which is about 160km from Hobart. Personal vehicle is the easiest option but there are numerous guiding companies that offer bus transfers from Hobart airport or city. They’ll pick you up at the end of the walk too. Hitching a ride is a risky option, especially if you have flights to catch. I emphasise here that this is well and truly the end of the road.

The best and most thorough guide available is John Chapman’s South West Tasmania (http://www.john.chapman.name/pub-sw.html). It has a day by day written account and maps throughout. Don’t always trust the opinions, however, when he describes something as steep or very steep, which is most of this time, you should be thinking vertical. And do take 20 metres of rope, you’ll most likely need it.

Traversing this ridge is not for the average Joe Bloggs. Some experience with heights, rope, exposure and weather reading is necessary to keep yourself safe. I also wouldn't recommend traversing this alone. A couple of years ago I started the ridge solo, got two days in and a massive storm erupted on me so I hooked it out of there and back to the carpark. Having now completed the traverse with two friends, I am so thankful I didn’t push on, on the first attempt

The walk begins on the plains of the South West and gradually makes its way to the base of the fist big climb. As you walk across the plains you get to take in the mammoth mountains ahead. The weather moves fast around here so take the photo opportunities while you can. Ascending Moriane A takes a couple of hours and a lot of determination. Up top you get to soak in views and stride along the beautifully made alpine track. The track is very well defined here but as the days go on, it becomes less so. Camping throughout the ridge is always on tent platforms that generally fit two, two man tents. Squeeze them on as it can get pretty busy.

Every camp is situated next to a lake except one. High Moor camp is about half way along the traverse. If it hasn’t rained in a couple of weeks you may need to eat lunch for dinner. My advice is to consult Parks Tasmania at Mt Field (You’ll pass it on the way to Scotts Peak) and ask them about the rainfall situation. Best bet is to carry all your water for that day plus a little bit more. It took us two and half days to get to the most committing part of the ridge and then we spent two days out on the exposed mountain tops. There were times when slipping, tripping or falling wasn’t an option as it was a long way down and you weren't coming out anytime soon. We had to get the rope out numerous times to haul our packs or lower them down awkward chasms. In those two days, we walked about 7km in total and it took us about 13 hours over the two days. Yep, if you do the math, that’s about 500m and hour. Like I said, it’s steep and technical. I also think a big portion of this time was spent admiring the views. Every corner you turn there seems to be a new lake, mountain top or perspective. It is truly one of the most magnificent places I have ever been. Since leaving, I have been plotting my return.

We spent 5 days on the traverse in January 2016, 7 days out in total. We had allocated 10, however the fire situation in the North West brought us back to reality when we woke on what was our second last day with ash on our tents. We descended Kappa Moraine the following day, cut across the plains and made our way back to the car via McKays Track.

If you’re a bushwalker, climber, mountaineer or general outdoor enthusiast then you must experience the Western Arthurs. It takes bushwalking to a whole new level and you’ll be wanting to return as soon as humanly possible

by Georgia Nelson

2015

 www.gknphotography.com

LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country]  and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Tasmania and urges you to please do the same.

Aboriginal Name for Tasmania - Palawa

Freycinet Peninsula Circuit

It was midday Sunday in November. We were perched high on the granite summits of Mount Freycinet. Looking down onto the turquoise waters and white curved beach of Wineglass Bay, we contemplated the dark history of Van Diemen’s Land. In the early 1800s, barbaric whaling practices had turned the bay into ‘wine’. While the bay has since recovered, the whale population never did.

We had set out two days earlier, on a Friday morning, heading south from the Wineglass Bay car park towards Cooks Beach, following the anti-clockwise directive (Tasmania Parks & Wildlife Service (TPWS) wants you to hike in this direction so you don’t spread root rot).

After making our way along the Hazard Beach cliff and scrub track, we dropped down onto the long stretch of Hazards Beach. Under a blazing un-Tasmanian sun, we powered through soft sand for what felt like hours – it was hours – only sure we were getting closer when we looked back and could see how far we’d come.

Hiking boots long discarded, we crossed trickling creeks where they ran out into the ocean, and marveled at the untouched savage beauty of it all.

At the end of Hazards Beach we re-entered the scrub, trekked along the Peninsula Track towards Cooks Beach, and the dappled sclerophyll forest was a welcome relief from the unexpected midday heat.

We popped out onto Cooks Beach, the white sand simply dazzled and was accented by terracotta coloured rock formations and a cyan coloured ocean. We were alone, having not seen anyone the whole day and we took our time selecting our beach side campsite at Cook’s Corner, settling in for the evening.

The next morning, Saturday, we awoke to another unexpected blazing hot, clear day. Make while the sun shines, we thought. We spent the day as local castaways, exploring our deserted stretch of island. We basked in the sun, and shivered knee-deep in the icy ocean. It was a rare day off, and we were cut off, and it was fabulous.

Sunday morning, under a grey fog, we packed up camp and headed for the hills. The climb started rather innocently, winding its way through the leafy scrub before really asserting itself. We left our packs at the track mouth to Mount Freycinet and climbed the summit. The granite boulders provide postcard-worthy views over Wineglass and Promise Bays, with The Hazards between them.

Back at the fork, the main track descended steeply upwards. As in, hand-and-foot steep. Several times I felt my heavy pack try to tip me off the track, and I was relieved to get to the top in once piece. The walk along the tabletop and down again to Wineglass Bay was fairly easy going and scenic, and the spring wildflowers throughout this stretch were amazing.

As we descended down into Wineglass Bay, the humidity and biters increased. Natural viewpoints out to the Bay called to us to stop, but the mosquitoes drove us (me) on. We passed natural waterfalls and through different forest types. Finally, we wound our way to the bottom, through the campground and onto the glorious white sands of Wineglass Bay.

After an invigorating plunge and lunch, we noticed a dark storm in the distance. We decided to play for home – we were only 1.5 hours from the car, with lunch under our belts, and the campground was populated which was not too appealing. We threw our boots over our shoulders and hoofed it, but the storm roared over top before we were half way around the Bay. Bracing winds and biting rain: that ‘Tasmanian’ weather that we’d prepared for had come after all.

At the other end of the Bay we continued (barefoot) up and over The Hazards, down into the Wineglass Bay carpark and piled into our little (warm and dry) rental.

Key details:

The circuit is probably best done in 2-3 days, and TPWS estimates the following timeframes:
    •    4-5 hours from Wineglass Bay carpark to Cooks Beach;
    •    5 – 6 hours from Cooks Beach to Wineglass Bay via Mt Graham; and
    •    1.5 hours from Wineglass Bay back to the Wineglass Bay carpark.

We had enough food for 4 days and water for 2 days (or 3 at a stretch). TPWS warns that the water collection points on track are rainfall and/or usage dependant. For our first leg, we filled up with rainwater from Cooks Hut, which is along the trail towards Bryan’s Beach. Brian’s Beach is an hour walk from Cooks Corner, and there is no water there. On our second leg, we had planned to stop at - but missed - Graham Creek, which is said to be a water source.

We travel with our ultra-light/small MONT Moondance II tent, Thermarest mats, MONT down sleeping-bags, Trangia cooking gear, Deuter water bladders and Nalgene water bottles, all packed into our One Planet packs.

I've never met a pair of shoes that didn’t blister. I advocate the ‘don’t look until you’ve finished’ approach.

by Claudia Gillies

2015

claudiagillies.com

LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country]  and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Tasmania and urges you to please do the same.

Aboriginal Name - Not Found

The adventure begins with four hours sleep, a plane flight, a 3 hour drive across the highlands of Central Tasmania in the first snow storm of the season, in order to get to Lake St Clair and begin the journey into the wild.

The Range lies in Central Tasmania and is accessed from the southern end of the Overland track via Lake St Clair and Pine Valley Hut. It’s about a 3 hour drive from either Hobart or Launceston. There are options to bus, self drive or hitch hike (at your own risk) into this beautiful part of Tasmania.

We neglected some minor details while preparing for this trip, like sourcing appropriate maps. Turns out, TasMap don’t actually print The Du Cane Range map anymore. It requires a special order to print. So if you’re thinking about this hike, then think about maps well in advance. We did however get hold of a GPS route from another keen Tassie hiker, downloaded PDF versions of the maps to our phones and found a substitute map for the one we actually needed. This meant we were pretty much covered, except for the fact that some days and nights were spent walking and camping ‘off the map’. We also neglected to bring the charging cables for the power bank that we brought with us. You could say the lemons were stacking up, but we brushed it off and kept on laughing.

The route can be conquered in 4-7 days depending on weather and your motivation to climb to summits for no particular reason other then to take in the view. We spent 6 days out on the trail with minimal unnecessary summiting. The trail is partially tracked but mostly just marked with rock cairns. Aside from the first days walk up into the Labyrinth, there is no actual trail depicted on any map, thus, route finding and navigating are must have skills for this hike. The route takes you up onto the top of the range and keeps you there for the entire time until you descend back down onto the Overland Track just north of Bert Nichols Hut. The views are breathtaking and provided the wind stays at bay the sunsets, and sunrises are majestic.

Traversing the Du Cane Range can be likened to crawling up and down a very repetitive ladder with huge gaps between rails that are really just jurassic dolomite boulders which feel like they're covered in shards of glass. With every touch, another layer of skin is lost. But, it is 100% worth it for the solitude, campsites and regained sense of adventure. Campsites are mainly found in big bowls that are littered with small tarns, thus water is generally not an issue, but finding soft, dry ground to pitch a tent can be. The days were short in kilometres, but long in time and mentally exhausting. There were times when we’d only be travelling 4km but the technicality of walking and exposure that was experienced meant slow and careful manouvering. Falling was not an option. Parts of the range are so steep that you are climbing up the side of mud clad mountains riddled with boulders and wet shrub. There are moments when a summit is reached and you wonder how on earth you are going to get down the other side. Off in the distance a rock cairn is spotted and the down climb begins. You pass by natural monuments named things like Big Gun Pass, which should be interpreted quite literally. The final ascent onto Falling Mountain proved to be a knuckle breaker. The higher we climbed, the bigger the boulders became. Some the size of a big yellow school bus. Conveniently, the rock cairns started to disappear and the GPS route was impossible to follow (possibly due to user incompetence). The four of us were now trying to find a way through this mass of boulders perched on top of this huge mountain in order to make camp. It took a bit of route finding, pack and human hauling to find our way out of what was quickly becoming a maze with no end. There were sighs of relief when we were able to touch down on vegetated land and the huge, panoramic views right out to Frenchman’s Cap and over to the Walls of Jerusalem made it worth it. The descent of the same mountain was just as trying. Rather then having precarious bus sized boulders to negotiate, we now had head high and dense vegetation to bash through in order to make our way out onto the Overland Track. With every push through the scrub, more and more skin was lost. We burst out onto the track and practically got down on our knees and kissed it.

After the initial snow storm that left icing sugar on the peaks of the surrounding mountains, we were blessed with almost perfect weather. Still days, cold nights with skies full of stars and the rain at bay. You spend so much time above 1200m when on the Du Cane range that you certainly wouldn’t want to venture out there if the forecast was looking inclement. If you are keen to attempt this traverse, many others suggest trying your luck on the Western Arthurs first. It is a longer, but similar style of trail. One that requires full body walking, with long days and short distances. The Arthurs is formally tracked and mostly maintained by Parks Tasmania.

The breathtaking views of the DuCane Range will be etched onto this mind forever, as will the giggles of fear, the card games, the 5 o’clock dinners and the 14 hour sleeps. Go walking in Tasmania, you won’t ever regret it.

To order paper maps head here:https://www.tasmap.tas.gov.au/Search.do  

For GPS imagery of a similar route look here: https://rockmonkeyadventures.files.wordpress.com/2015/02/du-cane.jpg

By Georgia Nelson

2016

LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all Central Tasmania and urges you to please do the same.

Aboriginal Name - Not found

One of the most secluded walking tracks in Australia is the iconic South-Coast Track. Located in the isolated South-West National Park in Tasmania, the trail brings you over beaches, rainforest, grass plains, and mountains as it hugs the exposed coastline along the bottom of the island state. I walked the track from West to East with my partner and friend from Hobart starting in Melaleuca and finishing seven days later in the southern-most town in Tasmania, Cockle Creek.

The only access to Melaleuca is by small plane from Hobart. The flight was a sneak preview of our week in the wilderness as the plane flew south towards the south cape of Tasmania before heading west as the flight path followed the track in reverse. The rugged coastline punctuated by river inlets was spectacular from above. When arriving at Melaleuca, it’s impossible not to feel overwhelmed—like you have landed in another world. Other than the airstrip, there was only a research centre, and a hut showing us which way to begin. A few of the researchers came out to wish us luck on our adventure.

When we first researched the track, we read reviews from jaded walkers talking of days wading through waist high mud and getting battered by wind when crossing the Ironbound Range. To an extent, these stories are true. We encountered mud—lots of mud—especially on day six when walked 4kms in four hours after a night of rain.  
And yes, the Ironbound Range, the highest point on the trip was spectacular but we could not stay up there long enough to catch our breath or take a decent photograph. The wind was too strong, we felt like we were going to be blown off the top of the mountain.

What I was not entirely prepared for is the sense of isolation and adventure the track brings. We did not see another person until the final day of the walk except for workers laying duckboards to improve the track intermittently along the trail.

The camping on the track is the best I had ever experienced. The campsites along the track were well-maintained and located next to water so it was easy to swim or rehydrate. In particular, the campsite at Granite Beach is perched above a rocky beach and is only accessible by scaling a rocky bluff. A river runs down over the bluff and forms a natural waterfall about ten metres in height as the water falls onto the rocky beach below.

I am not much of a boat person. In fact, none of us were. So when we had to row a dinghy at sunset across New River Lagoon to our campsite for the evening we were more than a little nervous. The dingy was tied up on the western sides of the bank at one of the widest parts of the river. The crossing was probably only 300-400 metres in width but the cross winds and our weariness from a day walking made it a difficult task. The size of our packs meant only two of us could fit in the one dinghy with our packs. I ended up having to make the crossing three times, which involved towing the dinghy on the other eastern bank of the river back with me to to the western side so the next person doing the walk was not stranded without a dinghy.  It took a couple of hours to complete the task, mostly because of my terrible rowing skills but we all made it to our campsite, semi dry and with all our gear.

Water crossings are a reoccurring theme of this walk. We tried to plan ahead each day and not get caught out on high tide—which was difficult since we did not carry a tide chart. Inevitably, we did have a close call on day six trying to cross a fast flowing river mouth at South Cape Rivulet. The day had been a struggle as we walked for seven hours through dense rain forest without any views while needing to take regular breaks to pull leaches out of our shoes and strap my partners swollen ankles. We arrived at the rivulet on high tide in the dwindling light. The rivulet water level was knee high when it drained but was overhead when it rushed out to sea. The body of water moved incredibly quick and the sand bed underneath our feet fell away every time the water drained.  We all somehow made it across without losing gear or ourselves. But I did have one scary moment when I was crossing. I had water up to my chest and had to wiggle my feet deeper into the sand so I could anchor myself as the water flowed out to sea. I was so relieved when the sand bed started to stabilise beneath me and the water slowed enough for me to grab Paul’s hand as he pulled me to safety. Lesson learnt—don’t mess with water crossings.

By Lachlan Cloak

2016

LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country]  and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Tasmania and urges you to please do the same.

Three hours due West of Melbourne lies Dunkeld, a small rural town nestled at the southern reach of The Grampians National Park. Mount Sturgeon and Mount Abrupt are two relatively lonesome peaks, hanging out by themselves half an hour South of the full Grampian crowd. Both peaks set an impressive scene backdropped against the mountains to the North, and arriving in Dunkeld you realise you’ve got little between you and two sick day hikes. Sturgeon and Abrupt are perfect to saddle an overnight if you’re in the area, or as a hiking sampler for someone who wants to give it a nudge and hasn’t yet geared up for longer hikes.

There's plenty of places to stay overnight in or about Dunkeld, with the prestigious Royal Mail Hotel (gourmet as!), a caravan park on the way into town, a bed and breakfast and an eco lodge heading towards the mounts, not to mention a few areas to pitch a sly tent. The legitimate camping sites within the park need a booking in advance and are a bit far north, but you can set a tent near the base of Mt Abrupt according to the Parks Vic website.
I made my way up Sturgeon just after sunrise and knocked Abrupt off around midday. With a dash of hindsight I'd definitely try to catch a sunrise or set, I feel I may have just missed something special. I did beat the local Wallaby population out of bed though, and thankfully they all scattered quick to remind me that I'm tough and don't get frights...

Both hikes are doable well under the 3 hour Parks Vic guideline, 2 hours each is fair. They have the odd steep patch so solid shoes, clothing to suit and reasonable fitness will do. When you get moving there's plenty to see nearby and further afield, with the Grampian ranges and a massive horizon dominating any clearings pre summit. Colourful little flowers, stalky wallabies and tiny toy cow’s grazing off into the distance also kept my gaze occupied. Mt Abrupt offered numerous sheltered spots for a feed and brew along the way where I tried out some new coffee gear and ate my mandatory oversupply of tasty treats. Sturgeon’s a little more exposed trudging up the northern slope, however the impressive views definitely make up for any brief lack of shelter.

So, if you’re after stunning views without trekking for days and still want to see stuff worth staring at, these petite peaks might just be what you've been looking for.

by Andy McMaster

2016

Featuring the Peak-to-Peak Coffee kit from Coffee Supreme Australia

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Built for adventure, the Peak-to-Peak Kit will keep you caffeinated from the highest mountain to the most relaxing beach side camping grounds.

Each pack contains two of our 10oz Enamel Camping Mugs featuring artwork by Joel Pringle, a 20oz Insulated Klean Kanteen, a Mini Porlex hand grinder and 250g fresh-roasted coffee.

Choose then, a Wacco Minipresso, the world’s best travel espresso maker or an Aeropress for beautifully convenient filter coffee.

Take your coffee outdoors.

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